Showing posts with label travel. Show all posts
Showing posts with label travel. Show all posts

Eclipse trip: the non-eclipse and non-Yellowstone part

We always become so fond of the rental houses we stay in. Teddy called this one our "Cabin House" and soon we were all calling it that. It was in a much less-wooded area of Island Park than the place we stayed last time, so it felt very different. This place had a wrap-around porch, with beautiful views of the sunset across the open meadows. We loved it.
One of the first thing the boys did upon arriving was to put up their hammocks. These were hung in many configurations over the few days we stayed here.
Triple-decker!
Inside, the kids loved all the animal skins (pelts?) and…busts? Heads? Are they just called heads?
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Eclipse Trip: "Yellowbone"

…(as Teddy referred to it)…is such an amazing place. We love it, but when we visited there last year, I figured we probably wouldn't be back for a long time, since there are SO many cool places I want to visit even just here in the Western U.S., that there just isn't time for repeats! Except…that most places we go end up being so great that we WANT to repeat them. Sigh. Anyway, sometime last August, I looked at the calendar and realized that the total solar eclipse was finally coming up (in a year)! I had been looking forward to it for years, having always vowed I would see a total eclipse someday, and once I did some research I learned that the Snake River Valley in Idaho was a great place to see it!

So, I made reservations right then for a rental house in Island Park, and with Yellowstone being so close, we were delighted to realize that we WOULD have time for a repeat visit in the few days before the eclipse! Hooray!

When the time finally came, we were happy to have my mom with us on the trip too, and in addition to her devising all sorts of clever games to play with the kids in the back seats (thus keeping the arguments/fighting in the van to about 50% less than usual), it was fun to have her along because she could remind us what Yellowstone was like when she last visited, which was when I was about 4 years old. AND she was another pair of hands for the little ones to hold (the most popular pair of hands, naturally) which made the hiking much easier!
Sebastian said, "I think the worst thing about having a big family is having to stop at the bathroom so often." Yes, there was a lot of that.
Teddy seemed like a whole different boy on this trip! He was hiking under his own power (mostly), he was commenting on things, he was pointing out geysers…he has truly become an actual person during this year! (And I had forgotten until reading about it here…or perhaps repressed the memories…about how he SCREAMED nonstop while being carried in the backpack last year! And he was so HEAVY!) This year he was pleasant and darling and liked everything, and it was so fun to watch him taking it all in! Sebastian especially liked showing and telling Teddy about all the things we were doing, and then they'd reminisce about them as we drove home at night.

Because we'd been here so recently, and because everyone was warning about crowds and madness due to the eclipse, I thought maybe we should just skip Old Faithful and that whole area. But Sam thought it wouldn't be that bad, and he was right! We tried to get there fairly early in the morning, which helped. And there were crowded areas, but mostly later in the day, and really no worse than the crowds in the prime of summer season (end of June) we encountered last year.
Last year after seeing Old Faithful, we looked up the other "predictable" geysers (there are about five or six of them that have a fairly regular eruption schedule) and realized there was no way we could arrange to be in the right places at the right times to see them all. Some have a predicted time, "plus or minus six hours," and who has time to sit around and wait for that? We just assumed you had to get lucky to see any of them, or waste your whole day waiting.

But there are tons of cool things to see even when the geysers aren't erupting, so we started off around Upper Geyser Basin while we waited for the next Old Faithful eruption.
The Lion Group of geysers erupt frequently—we were happy to walk by while this one was erupting, and get sprayed with a lovely mist of water. (At least…I was happy. Teddy didn't want to get wet!) There was even a rainbow in the mist! It was lovely.
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At Cape Lookout

I'll tell you a story, but I warn you it doesn't reflect very well on me. It was one of those internal storms that came and went before I really did anything about it outwardly, which I guess was good, because in retrospect it became obvious that my internal reactions were silly. But it's still kind of embarrassing when I think about it. However—this is the type of thing it is good for me to remember. (And also, this place sounds like it needs to be in the title of a Hardy Boys book. Caper at Cape Lookout!)

We were driving around on the Oregon Coast looking for things to do. We stopped at Cape Lookout State Park, which is a beautiful stretch of forest right along the edge of the bay where we were staying. There are hiking trails and overlooks, and it's the sort of amazing scenery that goes against everything I'm used to. In my mind, forests are only in "the mountains," and there they are full of conifers, or possibly aspens, and some underbrush, but not much else. So these Oregon forests, sweeping fernily down as they do right to the cliff- and ocean-edges, seem like they defy nature! I LOVE them.
Okay, so far so good, but the trouble was that I had not brought my hiking shoes on this little outing. And the reason for THAT was that a month or so earlier, I had fallen off the most pathetic little step to the garage while lifting Teddy up—or rather, I had stepped where there was no step, and somehow bent my foot all the way forward so I landed on top of it, and that had torn some ligaments. It hurt so much those first few days that whenever I was alone I would start crying—not solely because it hurt, but because I was just so scared that I would never get better—and all the while, I KNEW I was being unreasonable but I just couldn't stop myself! (That becomes a theme in this story, I'm afraid.)

Anyway, of course, by the time we went on our trip to Oregon I WAS substantially better, but we'd hiked quite a bit in the preceding days, and now my foot was still too swollen to fit very well into anything except flip-flops.

But, we were here and this looked like a cool hike and we wanted to at least see where the trail went, so even though I was nervous about re-injuring my foot, we thought we could just go along for a little ways and then turn back.
It started out great. And there were SUCH amazing views! The trail wound right along the edge of the cliff, and every time there was a gap in the trees you could look out and see the blue ocean and bright tan beaches below. It was beautiful!
When the trail wound inland, there were all the little mossy hollows and tree-root-hideouts that make Oregon forests so lovely.
But I was slow. And getting slower. And soon I was limping and my foot was hurting and everyone had gone ahead of me except little Goldie. Sam had been holding Teddy's hand and called back to me about what a great little hiker Teddy was, and I felt so embarrassed to be slower and less tough than a BABY that I didn't have the heart to say how tired and sore I was feeling. But in my heart, I had all these feelings of impending doom, that I was going to stumble and break my foot or let Goldie fall off a cliff because I wasn't quick enough to snatch her back.

And of course it was apparent to all passers-by that I was pregnant—and somehow I just hated it that people were going to think I was slow and limping because of that—instead of because I had a hurt foot. Which is so weird. Why would it matter whether any random strangers thought (had they even been GIVING me any thought, which of course no one was) that I was slow and pathetically pregnant (which to be honest, I WAS) rather than slow and pathetically hurt? I don't know. But it mattered to me right then.
Whether I'm hurt or pregnant, it's better for me to be treated normally and not like some delicate, breakable porcelain doll. Really, I do prefer it, and I take it as a compliment if someone assumes I can handle hard things! I WANT to think that I can! If someone mentions my "delicate condition" I will laugh! (I think this has something to do with it too.) But I don't know if you've felt like this. Sometimes just the fact of other people expecting you to be tough and up-for-anything can feel daunting.  Like because it's expected of you, you can't admit it when you're struggling. I know that's prideful. Obviously everyone struggles. There are some things I would ask for help with in an instant! But here in Oregon, I wanted so much not to be physically weak! And at the same time I perversely just wanted someone to fuss over me and take care of me. And here I was hiking along with Goldie, feeling like the weakest person ever—torn between wanting to just sit down and cry, and being determined to keep going until I died right there on the trail, just to show everyone!
And I felt so grumpy! Just grumpier and grumpier and more and more sorry for myself. I was so mad at everyone: at all the other hikers who walked by and pitied me; at whoever made this trail with such a long, long downhill which I sure I would never make it up again; at my family for leaving me behind; at Sam for choosing this hike and not turning back like we'd been planning to, and for not CARING whether I was alive or dead behind him; and of course at myself for being so unreasonable (which I of course knew I WAS being, but even though I kept speaking very sternly to myself, my thoughts just kept circling back to how hurt and tired I was and how no one cared, and then I'd find tears leaking out of my eyes and down my cheeks again and feel embarrassed as well as mad!). The funny thing was that it all was so BEAUTIFUL. One of my favorite hikes I've ever been on! And I knew that! I was marveling at the scenery and saying to myself every few seconds how glad I was that I got to be here and see this. But at the same time and totally irrationally I was full of this black cloud of fear and misery and pain.

I don't even know how long this went on. Probably not nearly as long as it seemed. Finally there was a lookout point where you could see straight down some massive sheer cliffs into a little cove. The rest of the family was waiting for me there, all blithely happy and unaware.

It was terrifying, but so beautiful, to look down those cliffs! Everyone was marveling at it, including me, and in the midst of such a great place it felt weird to suddenly start in telling everyone how mad I was and getting them to feel sorry for me and the pain I was in. I knew the right thing to do would be to cheer up and just let go of my mad feelings; let them melt away and never be brought up at all. I'd been trying to manage that this whole time and now I should just DO it!

But I couldn't do it. Abe had already gone on ahead again, so I said some mad, grumpy thing to Sam about how I was heading back on my poor broken foot and everyone else could go on forever if that's what they wanted so much, and off I limped, martyrishly dragging Teddy along as he yelled "I want to hold Daddy's hand! No! I want Daddy's hand!" I felt so ashamed of myself, and so sad and hurt and discouraged and tired, and so despairing that I would ever become a better person—the type who finds the bright side in every situation and thinks about everyone else instead of herself.
It seemed even farther and steeper going back, and all the tree roots and the steep angles of the trail left my foot (and my belly!) aching and throbbing. I kept thinking that I just couldn't keep going. But there didn't seem any alternative either. I was crying and sniffling. And then…I heard someone else crying and sniffling! This is actually so funny when I imagine watching it from the outside. These two poor little forlorn souls, in this most beautiful and UNhorrible of situations! I came around a bend in the trail and there was my little Daisy. She was hiking along by herself, crying, and for a second I felt annoyed with her along with everyone else in the world, but when she looked up at me with her tear-filled eyes and said, "My foot hurts! I have a blister!" my heart melted and I felt so much compassion for her. She was ME! Poor little me in a tiny form. And at that same moment that I felt a wave of love for her, I felt unaccountably reassured that Heavenly Father loved me, too.

But in those split seconds, even though I wanted to—I also instinctively knew that I shouldn't just sit down with her and cry, or we'd NEVER make it back! I knew there was still a long way to go. So I took a deep breath and wiped my eyes and said as cheerfully as I could, "Daisy, I'm so glad I found you. My feet hurt too! And I'm so tired! And I've been crying just like you! But there's no other way back except for us just to keep going. And you know what helps most when you're feeling like it's too hard? Being grateful and being brave. And now we can do that together!"

And suddenly, amazingly, I felt like we could! We started talking about when Teddy was born and it was so hard, and how I felt the strength of all these presences near, helping me. And we talked about how when you think about good things, the bad things feel so much smaller. We love wildflowers, so we hunted for those and tried to notice how many different ones we could find. We talked about how beautiful it was out on the beach; how huge and unbroken the ocean looked out beyond the edges of the bay.
I don't remember exactly what else we discussed, but it must have been inspiring, because soon we were both smiling and talking and moving along at a faster pace, where a few minutes earlier I would have thought I had no more strength at all to give. Daisy looked down at her blood-stained foot a few times and started to get a little sniffly again, but each time, she raised her eyes back up, took my arm determinedly and kept going. And I kept going with her. And then somehow at last we were coming up the last hill of the trail and we could see the car, and we hugged each other and laughed with relief.
All the time we were hiking, I kept pondering and marveling at what had happened. I of course had been praying for help the whole time; praying that I could be braver and better. But the ability and power to do so only came once I found myself trying to love and help someone else who needed it. In some ways I had higher expectations of how brave Daisy could or should be than I did for myself…but mixed with more compassion as well. Or somehow, the clarity with which I could see what she needed in order to keep going—optimism, courage, gratitude—mixed with the knowledge that she needed to see ME modeling those things—increased my ability to do what I already should have been doing, but now without all the complications of anger and annoyance with my own weakness. I kept thinking, "Is this always how Heavenly Father does His work and sends his love?" And then…"Is this the whole lesson of parenthood, in miniature form?" I know it sounds so small and like I was overdramatizing the whole thing—which I admittedly was—but it was like a miracle to me, this change in my abilities and my vision and my capacity. I knew it was an answer to my prayers. As I thought about it, I was so grateful, I didn't even have to TRY to be grateful anymore. I felt like the hardness of it all was worth it, for the beauty and the insight that kept coming.

Once I was back in the car resting my swollen foot and getting a drink of water, I felt sheepish but also like I'd been through miles and miles of some exhausting journey no one else knew about. I was proud of Daisy. I was even cautiously proud of myself—at least, of where I had eventually ended up! I kept these things and pondered them in my heart for a long time.

(And my foot, as I should have known it would be, was fine again after a couple days, and I was SO glad not to have missed such a beautiful hike, which in retrospect seemed like it must not have been so terribly long or difficult after all!)
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Regarding Clams

I've been feeling a bit self-conscious writing this post, because it occurs to me that maybe everyone (except me) already KNOWS about clams? Perhaps even finds them (and their habit of squirting jets of water at unsuspecting passers-by) boring?? Is this like someone marveling that milk actually comes from cows? If so…we will now excuse you to go read something more stimulating. But I was SO happy about this whole…clam…thing…that even now, I can hardly contain myself!
Let me begin at the beginning. One day the tide was very very low, with a huge swath of beach exposed. We saw lots of people out wandering around in the tide pool areas and wondered what they were all doing, so the boys went down to the beach to see. Then Seb came back all excited saying, "There are holes in the sand, and when you walk by, water comes squirting out of them!" And without even having to think about it, I said immediately, "It must be clams!" I felt instinctively that I must have read a thousand books talking about people watching for the sprays of water and digging for clams on beaches. I don't know WHY on earth I would have remembered, or for that matter, why I would have read so extensively about clamming in the first place, but I felt if I knew one thing in this life, it was that sprays of water from holes in the sand mean clams!

It was one of those abstract knowledges with no basis in reality, however, and I immediately started to doubt myself. Perhaps I was thinking of oysters. Or crabs? Were clams only in…Maine or somewhere? And WHY did clams shoot out water? And HOW? We were on our way elsewhere right then, but Sebastian and I found ourselves returning to speculation about the clams—the alleged clams—in our conversation for the rest of the day. (Sometimes I feel so pleased with myself for producing children that duplicate my own quirks.)
And, at the earliest opportunity, when the next low tide came around, Sebastian led the way down to the beach so we could see these wonders for ourselves.
Soon we came to a stretch of sand that was covered with little holes, like this. They were obviously something different than just the usual holes and hollows made in the sand by the waves.
Near the hole-y sand were some big mossy, rocky areas like this, FULL of big shells. Clam shells…we assumed.
Suddenly, as we started walking across the sand, the girls started squeaking and giggling. "Eeek, something sprayed me!" It was true. The holes were spraying us! On purpose, it seemed! Although Seb had told us about it, we were still so taken aback every time it happened. It was unpredictable, but not quite random…it seemed liked the holes were spraying you on purpose when you walked by, because if you jumped up and down in one place, or ran across a section of hole-y sand, little jets of water would come up all around you or follow you as you ran. It was so funny! But so deliberate that I also felt a little indignant about it. What right did these holes have to just squirt us whenever they pleased?!
While we were on the beach, we tried to dig down into one of the holes to find out what, exactly, was under there…but we couldn't find anything! But, it was clams, of course. Razor clams, to be precise. We looked it up when we got home and learned more about them. They can dig WAY down deep (3-4 feet) quite fast, so you have to be quick and have a pretty long shovel or something to dig them up. Here's a video we found of what the clam actually looks like when it's squirting out those jets of water (starting about the 2 minute mark, you can see what it looks like as it squirts out jets of water and tries to burrow down in the sand again). So interesting!
And of course, there are lots of cool things to find at low tide besides clams! This was a cute little crab.
I love his beady little eye-stalks!
Lots of dead crabs too, and other shells.
And lots of cool (non-clammy) patterns and imprints in the sand.
But. I'd be misleading you if I didn't admit that those clams were the best part! It was like being at a splash pad—the kind of splash pad that has responsive motion sensors that turn on the water as you go by. And maybe even better than that, because there was always the element of surprise. Sometimes you'd hop up and down and nothing would happen at all, and you'd run in a circle and still nothing would happen, and then you'd peer down at the holes in the sand curiously and suddenly a squirt of water would go right up in your face! Or you'd run across one section without incident, and then you'd get braver and run back across it, and get squirted in the legs the whole way across! We laughed so much that our smiling muscles hurt!
This green part was quite slippery, but Teddy bravely soldiered on
So…to sum up…even if you aren't digging them up and eating them, clams are fun! I'm so glad we finally got to see (or…see evidence of) some in real life!
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